Where's the fire?

From the 1st of May until the 1st of October on Lesvos, and I guess in the whole of Greece, it's forbidden to start a fire. This means that you're not allowed to burn your garden weeds, you may not try to burn away the bushes on a piece of land to clear it and you may not make a fire in order to smoke away wasps.

This last thing was done by an army officer who had to control some pipes and found a wasps nest. I'm not sure if he managed to get rid of the wasps but certainly he smoked out the surrounding region: he caused a major fire in Dervenochora, in the district of Viotia. He will face severe punishment and probably serve some time in prison.

In Agias Isodoros on the island of Rhodes a 61 year old resident was getting rid of his weeds in the garden and caused with his garden fire a far greater fire: for 6 days the fire raged through the woods of the southern centre of the island. Smoke was so thick that some 2000 tourists had to be evacuated. Firemen from all over Greece were assisted by firemen from Cyprus, Italy and France. Today the fire is finally under control. That man not only burned his garden weed, he got 4 years in prison and a fine of 15,000 euros. About 5,000 hectares of woodland and agricultural ground were lost in the flames.

A fire on the Peloponnessus caused so much smoke that the highway number One of Greece, from Patras to Athens, had to be closed down and trains had to wait in stations.

Since the big wild fires at the end of last summer, where 270,000 hectares of land were burned, many houses were consumed in the flames and 77 people died, the Greeks this summer seem to be on the lookout for fires. Each day you can read in the papers long lists of where there are fires. The worst hit region is that of Athens, but islands like Crete, Corfu and this week Rhodes also got their fair share.

So now the government is under fire. Last year it was often said that the fires were caused by arsonists. However this year researchers pointed out three main causes that have nothing to do with arsonists: the electricity company (DEH) that has such old fashioned poles in the whole of the country, farmers that burn scrub land in order to make fresh pasture for their animals and finally the most complained about cause, and we cannot talk enough about this, the illegal dumps. Well, you could enter a fourth category: the stupid people that don't think, like the men named above.

Last year, farmers who burned scrubland were positive news. A flat land without scrubs is not such a great fire risk and it was said that this farming tradition should continue in order to prevent fires. Problem is that most farmers make these fires after the summer. From the first of October here on the island in the mountains it is a common sight to see little flames turning bushes into a black charred landscape. In those places in spring sheep will find juicy new green grass. So I'm afraid that I can't say for sure if this tradition, when done in the rainy months, prevents or causes wild fires.

Government as well is blamed for not having done enough in the past winter to prevent wild fires. There was no extra money to clean up woods or for more foresters. There are even victims of last years fires who did not see one euro for their lost houses.

The new 'who-to-blame' this year is the electricity company. They have these poles throughout the country that especially in the winter can turn into firework poles. In May such a pole was the cause of a minor fire along the road from Molyvos to Vafios. Some sheep escaped from the flames just in time and the fire was fought by two planes and lots of firemen on the ground.

We also have such a pole at the back of our garden. In the winter it sizzles and spews sparks, especially when it rains. In the winter you don't care, although I once saw such a pole set on fire and the fire brigade had to come and rescue it. However the pole behind our garden was spitting fire even in May. Then the electricity company came as fast as possible to repair it. But at night the pole still joins the cricket chorus with sizzling sounds.

Each night before I go to bed I check the pole is not spitting fire. I already told the meter reader of the phenomenon, as well as the hotel that is close by. But the pole still keeps on sizzling. That doesn't stop me from having a good sleep each night. Maybe I am as fatalistic as the Greeks are, they are no good at preventing whatsoever. My sister said that I should prepare a little emergency suitcase. I had to laugh at that idea. Before I run away I will of course first try to save the house from the flames.

Last week I wrote about water and hesitated to write about fires. Because often enough when I write about a drought, it will sometimes rain and when I write about high temperatures, they will drop the next day. So when I write that until now Lesvos has been so very lucky in not having any big wild fires, I touch wood (a Dutch tradition, say, to turn the evil eye away). And mind you, careless Greeks (and tourists of course) and thoughtless smokers: we must keep Lesvos out of the fires!

Copyright © Smitaki 2008

Zero nero

Good water housekeeping is not the strongest side of Greece. First of all not all Greek rivers are clean, and then Greeks have no idea how to handle reservoirs or water supplies.

The polluted Asopo River in Aticca (Southern Greece) was in the news more than once last winter. The little town of Oinofyta, that depends on the water of the Asopo, only recently realised the link between the polluted water and its high number of residents with cancer. Ten years ago this Asopo River even ran purple water! (I must say I once saw the river in Melinda (close to Plomari) also letting its purple water flow into the sea). Last week the municipality of Oinofyta was fined by the Union for Quality and Greek Drinking Water (EKPOIZO), because they were unable to provide the little village of Dilesi (6000 inhabitants) with clean water. This means that the Asopo River is still polluted.

I've no idea if they monitor the rivers here on Lesvos, but I know for sure that the river running past Vatoussa stinks like hell and when walking along its beautiful banks, you're forced to hold your nose!

Lesvos has two reservoirs and neither works. The one at Molyvos (a little outside town, on the right of the road going to Vafios) has been working for a few years, but since it was leaking until emptiness, nobody knew how to repair it (or didn't want to). Last spring the municipality even decided that the collected rainwater in the basin had to go, so they opened some taps and for days some roads were flooded and nobody thought to close them for the dry season.

The reservoir in Plomari (high in the mountains when you go upstream of the Sedounda) never worked. The people of Plomari think they can do without it, they always did, and they refuse to spend more money on the basin that was nearly ready to function. Last summer however Plomari was the first municipality where watering flowers, cars, streets and balconies was forbidden.

I think the Plomarians and Molyvorians better take a good look at the tragedy that unfolds on Cyprus. Last winter Cyprus didn't get any substantial rain and even though they all prayed for rain, nothing came and the island faces a very serious drought. This spring they made plans to save Cyprus: 8 million cubic metres of water had to be transported by ship to Cyprus to fulfil all water requirements (cost: 43 million euros). Two weeks ago the first 40,000 cubic metres of water arrived by tanker in Cyprus. But then the pipeline from-ship-to-shore happened to be a few metres too short! Ooops! Today the tanker is still there with all its water. And the water? It stinks! The authorities say that the water can still be filtered, but the Cypriots, however in need of water they are, don't want it.

The Turkish part of Cyprus in the north is facing the same problem. The Turkish government has decided to build a pipeline for water from the mainland of Turkey to Cyprus next year. They even offered water to their neighbours (peace water), but until now they didn't respond to this offer.

The most curious water pollution happened last week in Anavysos (East- Aticca). Dead birds were found along the shore and after research the birds were found to have died of arsenic poisoning. Small amounts of arsenic in the seawater can kill seabirds, people risk cancer. How come there is arsenic in the water? It might be from an illegal dump or from a leaking rubbissh dump, which is so common in Greece. However, it maybe that in this case the Greeks are not to blame and the arsenic got into the water because of splitting rocks. The area near Anavysos is known for its silver mines and where you find silver, generally you'll also find chlorine, lead, sulphur and arsenic.

It is interesting to think about this. My opinion is that swimming in the sea is very healthy. And if you can prove that the seawater also contains a lot of special minerals, swimming in the sea will be even more attractive. Lesvos is rich with many hot springs that are full of chlorine, calcium, magnesium, boron and lithium and it is a little radioactive (so little that it is no danger to health). It is said that a bath in a hot spring on the island helps people with diseases like arthritis, rheumatism, skin diseases, bronchitis and gynaecologic infections. I presume that a little of those minerals will flow into the sea, which makes the sea around Lesvos very healthy. There is no silver found on the island, so no danger of arsenic (by the way, the prohibition to swim in the sea at Anavysos has been cancelled).

Most beaches on Lesvos are filled with pebbles, some of which have pretty bright colours, which means that they contain some minerals. So lying on these stones will also be good for your health. I start to understand why some people think that this island has magic powers...

Most Greeks think that swimming in a pool is quite unhealthy with all the chemicals and people in it. Lots of tourists just lounge the whole day round the swimming pool of their hotel, because they hate the pebble beaches and think that the sea is dangerous and cold. They don't know what they are missing. Seawater anyway is good for your skin and when the sea is as flat as a mill pond, it's one huge pool where you have all the space in the world to play around. When there is wind, you have a wave pool for free. And here on the Greek islands we certainly have no shortage of seawater...

Copyright © Smitaki 2008

What do I see?

Some tourists think Lesvos is very very big. When you show them Turkey on the other side, some say: Well, I thought that was part of Lesvos. I must admit that it can be confusing because Turkey is a big presence in the view from Lesvos. You see Asia Minor from the east, north and south of the island. If you look at a map, you'll see that Turkey kind of embraces Lesvos.

When you get off the plane at the airport near Mytilini, you immediately see Turkey looming in the distance. Opposite to Mytilini is the busy region around Ayvalik and Dikili. It would be romantic to think that the horizon is white because of white chalk cliffs. But they are white chalked houses and other structures that are filling Turkey at a great speed. When you go north in the direction of Edremit, around the Gulf of Edremit, there are also many houses, resorts and hotels. Following this Gulf to the west, towards the north of Lesvos, you will see the little town of Assos, an old city that looks a lot like Molyvos. This region is not so popular with Turkish holidaymakers and it looks much less populous.

When Lesvos was part of the Ottoman Empire, there was a lot of trade between the Turkish mainland and Lesvos. Today they still trade fish. But nothing more than that. If you visit Ayvalik, you will be impressed walking round the market, seeing all the different fruits and vegetables piled high in colourful pyramids. However you are not allowed to bring any fresh food to Greece, due to European regulations to stop diseases. So the Lesvorians buy wedding dresses, furniture, tapestry and whatever is much cheaper than in Greece (and that is everything). When you return to Lesovs on the daily ferry that goes between Mytilini and Ayvalik, there won't be a single Greek with less than 10 packages.

I have to admit that I've never crossed the sea to visit Ayvalik. For about five years now I've look over at Turkey in the direction of Assos and I've always thought I saw an olive press with its chimney pointing at the sky, but if you visit the shore on the other side with Google Earth, you will see that it's a little whitewashed lighthouse.

Although it's not the same as travelling there yourself, Google Earth can give you a good first impression of the regions where you've never been. If you count the houses and umbrellas on the beach, you can make a good guess at how busy the region will be, in case you want to book a holiday there.

Geologically Lesvos belongs to Asia Minor. Once upon a time it was part of the mainland of present day Turkey. At that time there were sequoias on the island (you will find them now only petrified in the Petrified Forest near Sigri) and there were 'deinotheredes' wandering around, a kind of prehistoric elephant. A few years ago near Gavathas they found bones of these huge animals, with the beautiful name 'Prodeinotherium bavaricum'. For scientists this discovery proves that these mammoth-like animals also lived in Europe. Before, remains of these deinotheredes were only found in Africa. Some scientists even go so far as to say this is proof that once the continents of Europe, Africa and Asia were attached to each other.

Nowadays there is no big game left on Lesvos, no elephants to be seen (I won't count the wild boars that has been released around Agiasos for hunting). For the bigger game you have to go to Turkey, where they still have bears and wolves. When you Google Earth the Turkish region opposite Molyvos, you will see mountains covered with large forests (you don't even need Google Earth to see this). That is where they still live, where on a walk you can still run into one of those woolly brown bears. Last week in Australia they found a shark in a coastal swimming pool. The shark probably surfed a big wave into the pool. So everything is possible and who knows, one day there might be a brown bear standing on our front porch, knocking on the door, because bears know how to swim. But I'm sure that then I won't open my door!

From the west of the island, like Sigri, you don't see any land on the other side. You will only see big ships because there it is a shipping lane.

And it isn't only Turkey that you see from Lesvos. From the South, like from Plomari and Eressos, you can very clearly see the neighbouring island of Chios. To the right the island of Psara and at the left the small island Inousses, where two weeks ago the ferry Theofilos lost its job on the rocks (the ferry has been replaced now). To the left of Inousses you will see reappear the mountains of Turkey.

Molyvos has a smashing view over the northern coastline of the island towards the west, but over the sea it just looks towards Turkey. However when you climb higher, in the direction of Vafios and Lepetimnos, when the weather is clear you can se as far as 200 kilometres. Last week we went for dinner at Petrinos in Vafios and the sun was ready to plunge into the sea. Right under the orange ball was a pyramid-like mountain sticking out on the horizon: Mount Athos, a peninsula full of monasteries where only men are allowed. To the right of Mount Athos was Limnos, another neighbour of Lesvos, about halfway to Mount Athos. Because it doesn't have such high mountains you don't see it that often. It was so clear that to the left of Mount Athos you could even see the islet Agias Efstratios. I'm sure that if those mountains with bears on in Turkey were lower, we could even have seen Troy and Istanbul!

Copyright © Smitaki 2008

Tourist, Wild, Home and Foreign Cats

I just feel like I'm on holiday once the summer starts. Not just because the weather is warm and each day I can swim in the sea. It's mainly because I no longer have to cook enormous pans of pasta and I no longer have to worry if I have enough food in the house.

The more than 20 cats that I feed in the winter goes down to some days just 3 cats. Instead of tens of feeding bowls only one long one is in use. Most cats in the summer take a very long holiday. The biggest group disappears into the nearby hotel as soon as the first tourists show (actually, they originally come from the hotel!), another group goes to some tourist apartments where there are people that take care there's a permanently full feeding bowl and a lot of attention.

I should organise Cat Holidays. Not for the cats, but for the tourists that feel that they have to take care of these animals during their holidays. It is very sweet, I'm not complaining that they're spoiling the cats, but does anybody realize that there can be consequences from their spoiling the cats? The cats (and some dogs as well) learn to beg for food during dinner, they learn to sit on your lap and they get used to the luxury of sleeping on a bed and being an indoor cat. Originally they are Wild Cats, that have to look after themselves. And this is how a Greek Wild Cat turns into a Tourist Cat.

Another nasty habit of some tourist is that they take cats from the street to their hotel. They probably cannot resist these furry animals and they think: in the hotel they're better off, they get food and attention. Do they ever stop to think what happens to these cats when the hotel closes at the end of the season?

Look, I don't run an animal shelter, but I do try and keep the cat population on an even level. This means that in the wintertime I take the cats to be sterilised and some male cats to be castrated. At the beginning of the summer all the cats are done. So how come that pretty quickly all those cute little kitties appear in the hotel? Please, the hotel is also not an animal shelter!

You don't want to know what happens in November and December when all the hotels are closed. Suddenly Tourists Cats are on their own on the street, no tourists left to give them food or to give them attention. I know that a Greek Cat Life is much harder than the life of a Dutch House Cat, but sometimes I wonder if a Tourist Cat might have a harder life than a Greek Wild Cat. In the summer a Tourist Cat gets accustomed to all the good food and loads of attention, in the winter he has to forget all this wealth and look to his old instincts to survive as a Wild Cat. Think this over whenever you spoil a cat during your holidays.

Luckily enough there is another type of tourists that during their holiday fall in love with a cat or dog and take the animal home. These cats become Foreign House Cats, with a life that many cats here dream of. Sometimes I think about starting an export business for cats. Besides olive oil and feta there are so many cats here on the island that I'm pretty sure you could get rich on them. But then I also think of the many animal shelters in Holland. I mean Dutch Home Cats also are not all happy and often look for a new home.

A book was recently published (in Dutch) called 'Foreign Four Legs'. They praise the import of animals from abroad because they say that the Dutch shelters are so much better than those abroad. Well, what can I say...

Anyhow, here on the island are two shelters that can easily be compared with those in Holland (except they're very poor). There is the Wildlife Hospital in Agia Paraskevi which is meant to be a hospital for injured wild animals like birds and turtles. Their intention is to heal the animals and get them back in the wild. The other shelter is EreSOS for animals in Eresos, a shelter for about 7 dogs (but they generally have about 20 dogs) and a house full of cats.

So the Wildlife Hospital is no shelter for wounded animals, although they look like it. They have amongst other thingd=s some impressive birds like owls and buzzards that cannot go back to the wild anymore and they share their house with a large number of cats and dogs. I mean, how can you let go of a cat that after an operation turns into a cat on three legs, or what is there to put back when you save some puppies from the rubbish bin? For more information about what animals they treat and for visiting hours you can go to: http://www.wildlifeonlesvos.org/.

Then in Eressos there's the growing and growing shelter that care for cats, dogs, donkeys and horses (yes, sometimes Greeks also let down donkeys or horses). Just as elsewhere on the island, the people from the shelter find new born kittens in the rubbish, or they are just deposited on the doorstep of the shelter, or they free chained dogs that are left in the middle of the blazing sun, just to keep the foxes from the sheep. Don't ask how the animals come to their shelter! In the shelter they are fed, taken care of and then they try to find a new home for them (often abroad). Just like the Wildlife Hospital they are an organisation with people working 200% and depending on gifts and volunteers. You can email EreSOS: info@eresosforanimals.com or phone: (00 30) 22530 - 52148.

Copyright © Smitaki 2008

It never pays to hurry

Greeks can be very loud. Just like the Italians they talk loudy and very wildly. They're not quick to curse, but when they curse, you don't want to be near them. Like yesterday night I wouldn't like to have been on the bridge of the ferry Theofilos that sailed from Mytilini, Chios to Athens and hit a reef near the Oinousses archipelago. The cursing then was probably heard as far away as Lesvos.

The biggest island of the group of nine, Oinousses, is known for its rich shipping families. They more or less rule the island. The island is known as the richest in Greece and because they have enough money they're not keen on tourism. Besides some 1000 inhabitants Oinousses has a navigation school and a marine museum. There's a daily ferry from Chios to the island.

The people of Oinousses will have been wondering why exactly a ferry ran aground in front of their island, while no clouds were in the sky, so no storm or swell could push the ship off course (probably no captain from their navigation school!). Accompanied by a rescue team (helicopters, police and fishing boats), the Theofilos reached the island of Oinousses unassisted. There the 475 passengers in life-vests could board the rescue boats and get safely to shore.

The passengers were accommodated for a few hours in the navigation school of Oinousses, after which they were taken by small tourist boats to Chios to spend the night (Oinousses has only one hotel with 23 beds...).

Maybe it's a little early to talk about what caused the accident. On Saturday night there was no soccer on television, so the crew, and the captain, were probably not watching a match, which is what happened on 26 September 2000, when the ferry Samina Express hit a rocky islet close to Paros and sunk pretty quickly. During this catastrophe 82 of the 500 passengers died. The passengers of the Theofilos all survived without a scratch.

On Sunday on television it was alleged that the second captain thought about taking a quicker route... But I also heard through the grapevine that they did it in order to get the insurance money. The ship needed a face-lift (what trusting people the Greeks are!). This was also going through the grapevine when the cruise ship Sea Diamond hit a reef close to Santorini on the 6th of April 2007 and sank a while later (in this accident 2 passengers died). If it had been proved that they let the Sea Diamond sink, they wouldn't have got hold the 55 million euros insurance money. Later it was prooved that the boat hit the reef because their navigation maps were wrong.

After the disaster with the Samina Express in 2000 a list was published of ships that should have been taken out of ferry service or totally refitted. On this list was the Theofilos, as well as the Taxiarchis and the Mytilini from NEL Lines, who still carry on with their ferry services. I am wondering if they were refitted in the last 8 years...

The Theofilos was built at a shipyard in Rendsburg, Germany. In 1975 she was christened the Nils Holgerson and for the first 10 years she was a ferry between Travemunde (Germany) and Trelleborg (Sweden). Then she was renamed the Abel Tasman and became a ferry in Australia between Devonport (New Zealand) and Melbourne. In 1994 she began her Greek career as the Pollux and for 1 year she sailed between Igoumenitsa (Greece) and Bari (Italy). Then she was bought by a Lesvorian ship broker, she was renamed the Theofilos and she went to work for NEL Lines from Athens, Chios, Lesvos to Thessaloniki and back again. If this stupid navigational error, which left a tear in the ship of some 15 metres, means that it's the end of her career, is still not known. But the people of Lesvos will remember her. Most Greeks prefer to travel by boat and they liked the Theofilos. Seeing her sailing in and out of the harbour in Mytilini was a common sight.

Most of the stranded passengers of the Theofilos were quickly picked up by the Nissos Chios (a brand new ferry from 2007) and brought on to Athens. But many of them without luggage or their car...

It's not a good list of these boat accidents in Greece. But you should remember that there are hundreds of boats sailing between the 1400 islands of Greece. Last year when a group of tourists had to take the ferry to Athens because of a strike at the airport, most of them were very happy with the experience...

The following website gives an overview of all the ships that regularly sailed to Lesvos. It shows that over the centuries old ships were replaced by new ones, in order to keep life going on. Maybe the Theofilos will now be on the list of the ships of the past...
http://users.netonline.gr/costefan/lesvoships.htm

Copyright © Smitaki 2008

Money makes the world go round

Again there were Wild West images from Crete, the island that's infamous for its feuds. It seems that the Cretans no longer have patriarchs who look after their family. They seem to have become drug lords who think they're in Colombia. Last year in November, when the police raided Zoniana one officer was nearly killed because some heavily armed men were waiting for them. The whole country was upset and the entire region around the mountain village was combed by a huge police force under the scrutiny of the Greek media. They found masses of weapons, proof of bank robberies that took place on Crete earlier that year and millions of euros in the bank accounts of simple sheep farmers.

On Sunday it happened again. When some police officers went to the village of Malades (near Iraklion) to ask about a marihuana field, they were shot at and one officer was seriously wounded. You can bet that now an even bigger police force will go to Crete, because it;s a disgrace to the Greek government, showing that they've get no control over the drug lords of Crete.

Anyhow, the Greek government is in for a hot summer. Not just from the fact that it seems you are reading last years papers when you see the list of wild fires growing. The scandals around Siemens also seem to be at a peak and have caused a crisis in the Pasok party where high placed members got away with nice big bribes. That's not to say that the other big party of Greece, Neo Democratia, will get away with clean hands.

And then there are the soaring high prices. The government just blames the worldwide food crisis. That is very easy. They won't think about taking a closer look at the wholesale business, nor will they put a stop to the increasing prices (you would almost think that they had some interests there...) Meanwhile the tourists can't believe their eyes entering a supermarket, seeing the high prices the Greeks have to live with.

The only people to oppose this crisis are the extreme right and anarchist parties. Last week in Thessaloniki a right wing demonstration against the high prices was attacked by anarchists. Earlier this month there was a more fun protest in Athens by some masked youth who entered a supermarket, took as many basic products as they could from the shelves and went out on the street to distribute these goods with a flyer saying that this was a protest against the high prices.

The government slowly starts to understand that these high prices could be a reason for dropping numbers of tourists. They really have to worry because tourism is still the biggest earner in Greece.

Seeing Molyvos you wouldn't say that there are less tourists. Yesterday night the streets of the village were overcrowded and the hotels are so full that overbookings are a daily hazard. Elsewhere on the island they still complain that there aren't enough tourists or that they have no money to spend. This is easy to explain. Europe subsidised the new European countries such as the Czech Republic to travel a little around Europe and now Lesvos is filled with masses of Czechs that flew at a very low rate to the island, but have problems facing the high prices here.

Therefore it's good that the Greeks start spreading their holidays and visit the seaside more and more before August. The Greeks usually all went for holidays in August, but now you already see them appearing at the beaches at the end of June. And when a Greek saves or borrows the money for a holiday he really goes for it, without thinking of the increasing prices.

Going out for dinner in Greece used to be less expensive than to go to the shop and make your own meal. Today it's the other way round. Five years ago a dinner would cost around 10 to 15 euros. Now, and especially in Molyvos, you have to count on between 20 and 25 euros a dinner per person. I've said it before, the further you go from the tourist centres, the cheaper it becomes. Last week we went to Skamnioudi (close to Lisvori) where we ate amongst other things ray fish and kalamaria and we ended up with a price below 10 euro a person. (It wasn't at the taverna opposite the little harbour, but a little further along the sandy road following the coast in the direction of Skala Polichnitos.)

It's a shame that Greece has became so expensive for many tourists. Lesvos even became more expensive. The island is not known for the quality of its hotels (I sometimes even wonder if the Lesvorians know how a modern hotel should look). However the reason to come here is that the island is still not spoilt by mass tourism. It's still a charming Greek island with a landscape that has many beautiful spots that you only have to share with just a very few people. You have to pay for this small tourism but I'm sure that it'll be worth every eurocent you spend on it.

Copyright © Smitaki 2008

Sea and Fry Travels

Yesterday night there was a huge silence on the island (and I suppose in the whole of Greece). Greece went down in the football game against Russia and today they wonder what went wrong. The Greeks were probably so obsessed with keeping their European title, that nobody noticed any other news.

It's a shame that the Argo set sail without that any paper in Greece mentioned her launch. An eyewitness in a blog said that the ship left the port of Volos with only ship horns wishing it goodbye.

The project to rebuild the 28.5 metre long boat of the Argonauts based on old technical drawings of war ships took some 3 million euros. The plan to make the original journey, through the Bosporus to Colchis, where Jason stole the Golden Fleece, did not come about because Turkey refused to allow the Argo to sail the Bosporus. According to them the water that separates the European and Asian parts of Turkey, is so busy with tall ships that they cannot guarantee the safety of the Argo that has to row some 3,700 kilometres.

The original voyage of Jason and his Argonauts (it's believed that it took place around 1400 BC) went from Volos, the island of Limnos (which is the northern neigbour of Lesvos), the Bosporus, over the Black Sea to Colchis (nowadays in Georgia) and then back along that same route, over the Danube, crossing what was once Yugoslavia, to Ljubljana (it is said that Jason was the founder of this capital of present day Slovenia), across the Adriatic to Venice, then to the South of France, the Tyrrhen coast, Corfu, Syria, Crete and then back to Volos.

The alternative route of the rebuilt ship that started its journey yesterday will pass Chalkida, Piraeus, Sounion, Galaxidi, Patras, Ithaca, Corfu, Slovenia, Triest and Venice. 50 modern Argonauts will row the Argo in about two months to Italy (22 reservists will follow in another boat).

When the Argo arrives in Venice and Athens they will look out for quite another colourful traveling company: the one of 'Grease to Greece'. This is an alternative rally organized by the Englishman Andy Pag, who already made the papers with his journey to Timbuktu, because his truck was powered by reject chocolate! His latest project, a rally that starts in the middle of August, goes from London to Athens. The cars will have to drive some 2,500 miles on used cooking oil. Only in case of emergency is one allowed to use biodiesel. (see: www.fatfinding.com)

The organizer will prove with this rally that you can travel long distances with alternative fuel. And the travelling will be fun. One of the entry requirements is that a participant must know how to explain to an owner of a kebab restaurant in Croatia why he wants his cooking oil. I would love to see the face of a Greek cook, whose kitchen you just enter asking not for calamaria but for the oil he used to fry that calamaria...

When you are looking for adventure closer to Lesvos, I propose a trip to Agios Efstratios, an island that just like the island of Limnos, is part of the Prefecture of Lesvos. When the Argonauts reached Limnos, they only found women. The men had been murdered. Thanks to the Argonauts the population recovered from this tragedy. In Agios Efstratios there is still not so much life: just some 200 people live there. It is a tiny little island.

Its history may be even bigger. In the thirties and seventies the island was used as a prison for political prisoners, amongst them the famous composer Mikis Theodorakis. Last year the island was the subject of a dispute between NATO, Greece and Turkey. NATO planned a big exercise, but a day before Turkey objected, saying Agios Efstratios was a demilitarised zone, so NATO called the exercise off. Then Greece complained that NATO was too quick to believe Turkey.

This year peace was restored and the rocky island with its pristine beaches is a paradise for people who want real peace. The inhabitants are mostly fishermen, so for people who love to eat fish, it will be paradise. There is a daily boat that goes from Limnos to Agios Efstratios. If you take that journey, you may even see the Argonauts passing by...

Copyright © Smitaki 2008