One of the
treasures of Lesvos is the large village of Agiasos, which is nestled into the
mountains just next to Mt Olympos. It has been there for centuries, see: Emails
for Maria. And even though in the past it has been struck by disasters such
as hugely destructive wild fires, the village has kept an authentic identity,
which explains why it is one of the major tourist attractions of Lesvos.
When
arriving in the village you will notice the fresh mountain air, which in the
autumnal months becomes mixed with the perfume of overripe fruit like figs,
grapes and apples and in the winter months with the sweet fragrance of burning
wood stoves. This is a village where you can still find the ancient crafts of
wood carving, lace making and pottery; most of these products displayed in
crammed shops, just next to the thousands of icons. And each 15th of
August the village turns into a place of pilgrimage thanks to its famous
Mary-church.
Agiasos
loves to celebrate, not only at The Ascension of Mary but also in the spring
during the Cherry Festival and in autumn during the Chestnut festival. And then,
nearly each year in the winter Agiasos turns for a few days into a Christmas
village, with a covering of thick snow. The highlight of the winter is the
carnival, another occasion to celebrate.
While in
lots of countries like Holland carnival is just about disguise and beautiful costumes;
carnival in Greece and in Agiasos has an important social role: these are the
days when people can protest about everything that’s bothering them in Greece.
During the
carnival days Agiasos changes into a village where satire reigns, where there’s
an abundance of costumes, floats, concerts and theatre productions. In ancient
times young men roamed between the coffee houses, dancing and singing, in order
to seduce young women. But after someone, in 1902 during the time of Turkish
occupation, disguised himself as Alexander the Great trying to fire up
nationalism, carnival acquired another meaning for the villagers and became even
more popular.
When you
saunter along the steep cobbled streets, past the colourful houses and shops of
Agiasos, you might get the impression of an old village full of poor country
people. But Agiosos may be the most cultural place of Lesvos. Molyvos is the
village of the writers and painters but Agiasos is the one of theatre and
traditional music. And this is thanks to a local gunmaker who stood up for the
rights to education and culture. It was in his store during the Turkish
occupation that men met to read the papers (then full of news of the Greek
fight for freedom) in search of their cultural and traditional identity. These
gatherings became so popular that in 1894 the Agnosterion was created, a
cultural organisation that set up a library where Greek papers and magazines
from all over the world could be read. Hiding behind a cultural facade, their
aims were, of course, political. When in 1897 word got out that on Crete the
Greek army routed the enemy, Agiasos send sixty volunteers to the army, they
also gathered money for the Greek army’s participation in the Macedonian war
(1904 – 1908).
When Lesvos
was finally freed from the Turks in 1922 the Agnosterion set up, along with
activities like a gym club, a whole series of theatre productions, most of them
pretty satirical. During the German occupation it formed the centre of
resistance and tried to keep up the moral of the villagers, like putting a
float in the carnival procession, which depicted the liberation from the
Germans. During the civil war the integrity of some of its board members was
disputed and the organisation dissolved, to come back in full strength in 1952.
Even now the Agnosterion organizes theatre plays, concerts and other cultural
events, they have also been published many CD’s and video’s.
The
Agnosterion contributes to the organisation of the carnival at Agiasos. Now the
donkeys pulling the floats have been replaced by cars, but still carnival in
Agiosos is a celebration where poems are read, plays performed and old
traditions, like the colouring people with charcoal, have been revived.
This
weekend it is again carnival (the dates of orthodox and catholic carnival, just
like Easter, are different). Agiasos will turn into a colourful theatre, where
all problems of Greek life will be mercilessly exposed. And there are many in
these times of crisis, so I think the Greeks will not have any problem to
choose their subject and I am sure the Greek streets will be filled up with
lady Merkels, lady Europes and corrupt politicians.
However,
just like last year, the carnival celebration will be a little more temperate.
In Molyos for example there is no money for a procession and I bet it will not
be the only (sub) municipality with this problem. Carnival will finish with Clean Monday,
when kites
will be put in the air, trying to shoot to heaven, just like many a silent
prayer asking that next year life will return to normal and that people can return
to the usual disguises of criminals, corrupt monks or sexy weather girls.
(with thanks to Mary Staples)
© Smitaki 2013
