(Dandelion)
One of the
things I noticed during the first winter I spent on Lesvos, was the groups of
horta collectors. During the summer I had already been invited to go to the
mountains in order to look for wild vegetables so I imagined a romantic outing
on fresh mountain slopes with superb views. There also was a lady who kept
inviting me to a farm in the mountains.
In that
winter I found out that the area she referred to is known by the name Seven
Hills (Eftalou), but I see this region as pretty flat and not at all
mountainous: a sloping land with meadows and where olive trees grows. The farm
was actually nearly at the sea and also it seems that the word farm for Greeks has another meaning than
we have.
Here on the
island nearly no Greek lives on his farm. The Greek farma which is normally only home-made
ruins consisting of a collection of old wood and ancient beds set together as a
shed which act as a shelter for sheep and goats. The farmers themselves mostly
live in the nearest village and do their work from their village home.
Agricultural farms are relatively unknown on the island.
So I wonder
why you should go into the mountains to look for horta or go to a farma in the mountains: the
seven-hill-area is one of the most popular horta regions of the north of Lesvos
and as I have written many years ago in my blog: there are days that one group
of horta hunters after another appear here in Eftalou, so busy that you could
imagine starting a little fish & chips shop at the seaside.
You have
very bold horta-hunters, who just roam into your garden or park their car or
moped there, tear down the gate from the ‘closed for the season’ hotel (because
there in this forbidden place, —the grass [in this case the horta] looks
greener and juicer). The hunters behave as if finding horta is like a quest for
the holy grail so everything is permitted. They have just one goal: to fill up
as best and quickly as they can their plastic bags.
The
knowledge of horta is mostly passed from mother to daughter; there are men who also
know their greens but their skills lie more in hunting mushrooms. What horta
hunters look for depends on what grows in that time, what speciality they have
or on their state of health. One can look for horta that can mellow a headache,
another looks for a horta that cleanses the blood or something against stomach
pains. The fact is that horta is superbly healthy and lots of people do not even
care or remember which horta is good for what ailment.
It is not
that long ago that it was mostly only old women who went for horta. The horta
knowledge was in danger of disappearing. However, nowadays more and more people
have picked up the challenge of horta hunting and so I’m hoping that the
knowledge of wild vegetables will be saved. Due to the crisis, going for horta
is a new mania and why not? Suddenly people realise that nature is a kind of
market where you get for free wild greens, seafood and snails. Along the coast
you can go for squid, shellfish and sea-urchins, on the land you can gather
vegetables. There is no supermarket that sells it that fresh!
When I
recently was in Holland I was shocked to see that a big part of the Dutch go to
the same supermarket, a super market that reigns a country! Pre-cut vegetables
and fruit packed in plastic: who can believe that that is healthy? However tasty
they make their products with chemicals, it has less and less to do with real
food.
You do not
have to live in Greece to go for horta. You will find plenty of edible greenery
in your back garden, like burdock, cattails, chicory, dandelions, plantains or
purslane. You may even cultivate wild greens as real vegetables: Weeds in your garden? Bite
back! Or venture out on Sundays to the country and you will see, hunting
horta can be fun.
Here on the
island you do not really have to exert too much effort to get some food: the
island is surrounded by a huge fish pond and so many wild vegetables grow that
you do not have to look far, you’ll just stumble over them. Or the loudly
buzzing horta-women will lead you to the best spots.
What is so
great about the Greek climate is that, even in winter, nature is full of edible
stuff. Besides horta and mushrooms, now the citrus fruit is to be harvested and
it is time to brew sweet liquors, to pickle lemons and make and eat lots of
orange and clementine puddings.
I wondered
if there could also be horta-drinks. Herb drinks, like thyme liquor, are known,
just like ouzo is made with plenty of medicinal herbs (that is why it is said
that ouzo might cure stomach pains). I read somewhere that some Greeks drink
the horta cooking water, seasoned with some lemon juice, as a medicinal drink.
I have just remembered that as a child I made ‘wine’ with dandelions: I just soaked
the yellow flowers in some water turning it a kind of yellow, which I seriously
declared as ‘wine’. But dandelion wine does exist, even though I have not drunk
it since my youth. Here is a
recipe. And if you prefer to drink beer, here is a recipe for a dandelion
beer.
Greece is a
green winter-spring-wonderland full of culinary possibilities. It may take more
time to collect than to buy ready-to-cook vegetables or fish filets in the
supermarket, but at least you get something very healthy and fresh and… for no
money!
(with thanks to Mary Staples)
@ Smitaki 2013
No comments:
Post a Comment